Paradise A Boat Ride Away: A Perfect Day Exploring Hvar Town’s Pakleni Islands

Just a short stretch of water from Hvar Town lies an archipelago that feels like a different world entirely. The Pakleni Islands, a chain of small, largely uninhabited islets, are where locals go to escape the summer crowds that fill Hvar’s main harbor. Despite the ominous-sounding name (often mistranslated as “Hell’s Islands” but actually derived from the pine resin, or paklina, once harvested here for shipbuilding), the archipelago is anything but hostile. It’s one of the most tranquil corners of the Adriatic.

Getting there

The Pakleni Islands sit close enough to Hvar Town that regular water taxis shuttle visitors back and forth throughout the day in high season, with the crossing taking well under fifteen minutes to the nearest islets. For those who want more freedom to island-hop at their own pace, arranging your own vessel is by far the better option, since taxi boats run on fixed schedules and drop you at a single location for a set window of time.

Palmižana: the garden island

Sveti Klement, the largest island in the group, is home to Palmižana, a lush botanical settlement developed by the Meneghello family over generations. What began as a private retreat has grown into a beloved destination with restaurants, small guesthouses, and art galleries scattered among pine trees and exotic plants imported from around the world. The beaches here are pebbly rather than sandy, but the clarity of the water more than compensates, with visibility often extending ten meters or more on calm days.

Stipanska and Marinkovac

For a livelier atmosphere, Stipanska Cove on the island of Marinkovac has become known for its beach bars and daytime party scene, particularly the well-known Carpe Diem Beach club, which draws a young international crowd throughout the summer months. Music plays over the water, cocktails are served on floating pontoons, and the whole cove takes on a festival-like energy by mid-afternoon. Just a short distance away, quieter bays offer a completely different pace, with only the sound of cicadas and lapping waves.

Jerolim: the naturist island

Closest to Hvar Town, Jerolim has been an unofficial naturist beach for decades, popular with both locals and visitors seeking a relaxed, clothing-optional environment. It’s smaller and less developed than Sveti Klement, with a scattering of informal snack bars operating in peak season, and makes for an easy add-on stop when exploring the wider archipelago.

Hidden coves worth seeking out

Beyond the well-known spots, the Pakleni Islands are riddled with smaller, unnamed coves accessible only by water. Many have no facilities whatsoever: no bars, no sun loungers, sometimes not even other people. These are the bays worth seeking out for travelers who want genuine solitude, a swim in impossibly clear water, and perhaps a picnic lunch packed from one of Hvar Town’s markets.

Making the most of your time

Because the archipelago is spread across several kilometers of coastline and multiple islands, having your own boat transforms the experience entirely. Rather than being tied to a single beach for the day, you can chase shade, avoid crowds, and discover coves that most visitors never see. Anyone planning a full day exploring the archipelago should look into options to rent a boat Hvar before setting out, since availability during peak summer weeks can fill up quickly, especially for smaller, easier-to-handle boats that don’t require a skipper’s license.

Practical considerations

Bring more water and sun protection than you think you’ll need, as shade is limited across most of the islands, and the Adriatic sun is intense from June through August. Cash is preferable at smaller, family-run establishments, and it’s worth noting that mooring in busier coves during peak hours can be competitive, so arriving earlier in the day secures the best spots. Whether you’re chasing a lively beach club atmosphere or complete solitude in a hidden bay, the Pakleni Islands offer both within a few kilometers of each other, a rare combination that makes this archipelago one of the true highlights of any trip to Hvar.

Wildlife and natural surroundings

The pine-covered slopes of the Pakleni Islands support a surprising range of birdlife, and the surrounding waters are part of a wider marine environment that includes seagrass meadows crucial to the health of the Adriatic. Snorkelers exploring the rocky edges of the islets often spot sea urchins, small schools of bream, and the occasional octopus tucked into crevices along the shoreline. The relative lack of development across most of the archipelago has helped preserve this underwater habitat far better than in more built-up parts of the coast, making even a casual swim here more rewarding than at busier beaches closer to the mainland.